Ryukyu Women Wearing White Robes

What Should We Call Them?

They are a special sort of people, performing important rituals in the Ryukyu Islands.

Pictured above, are five of these ladies on the island of Kouri-Jima, yesterday morning.

Coronavirus has canceled many cultural events on the islands this year but, not this one.

It's obvious, watching these gals, they are praying so, it's some sort of religious event.

There are questions, to be asked, just to satisfy my curiosity and maybe, other folk's, too.

It's such a solemn-looking ceremony, I can't just say, "Hey Lady, what's going on?"

Another Island - More Women in White Robes

Afternoon provided an opportunity to photograph more ladies wearing those white outfits.

Back on the main island of Okinawa, in the village of Ogimi, similar ceremonies took place.

 Many times, I've attended gatherings like this, and the question arises.

Are the gals in the white robes, Kaminchu, Noro, or Yuta?

Priestesses, of some sort, I guess you could call them. I'm sorta a shy individual.

Whenever I want to ask one of them something, I try to be polite and respectful.

"Nene, Can I ask you what that thing is, you're wearing in your hair?" 

To me, they are special people so, I call them Nenes.

Noro or Nuru, would be the terminology a local would consider these women to be.

From Wikipedia:

"Noro (祝女, sometimes 神女 or 巫女) (Okinawan: ヌール nuuru^[1]) are priestesses of the Ryukyuan religion at Utaki. They have existed since at least the beginning of the Gusuku Period (late 12th century) and continue to perform rituals even today. They are distinct from yuta [ja] (psychics), but are classified as kaminchu ("godly people")."

Wordless Wednesday: Handling the Incense

Abushibare

Travel Photo: At a Noro House in Itoman

Noro: An Okinawan Priestess

This image comes from my files dated June 2013 and, was just processed today.

Things have a habit of sneaking up on me this time of year. I get extremely busy.

The event above, happens at the conclusion of the Itoman Hare or Dragon Boat Races.

For some reason, the races are taking place early than usual and, I won't be attending.

My calendar, has already been filled, going into the month of July.

The Itoman Hare happens to kickoff at 0900 tomorrow !

Historically, these dragon boat races, signal the end of Okinawa's rainy season.

To see more about these rituals, have a look at some previous posts:

2012 Itoman Dragonboat Races

Tip Your Boat Over During the Race

GIF Animations from Itoman City

At the House of a Priestess in Itoman Okinawa

Japan Times Article About Okinawa's Dragonboat Races

Photo of the Day: Seaside Rituals

Camera: Pentax K1

Lens: Pentax 15-30 at 28MM

Exposure:  f/3.5   1/4000   ISO 400

Location:  Yaka Beach, Kin Town, Okinawa, Japan

Date and Time:  May 10 2017  9:58AM


Here's more of what took place at Yaka, Kin Town today:







RELATED POST: 

 

Abushibare (畦払) Snails Got Sent Out to Sea Today

Sometimes People Get in the Way

Rituals on a Seashore

A priestess, at an annual event called Abushibare (畦払) is centered in this photo.

The challenge, for me: Get an image of her, isolated from the crowd.

It's sort of a religious ceremony so, I couldn't do what I did last night in a crowded bar.

Yell, "Get out of my way everybody. I gotta pee."

Besides, I know some of those folks with cameras and they're trying to get good photos, too.

From my position I couldn't zoom-in for a good shot so, I went wide angle, to shoot everyone.

Moving around a bit, I managed to catch the priestess and her assistant, from an angle.

But, this wasn't exactly the type of composition, I was aiming for.

Off to her other side, I was able to capture some good elements of the rituals.

She was talking to the spirits, making offerings and, the wooden sailboat was in the scene.

The plastic cup in the boat, contains some varmint snails, that will be sent out to sea.

Those rascal cameramen, just wouldn't get out of my picture but, I kept quiet.

When I did my photo editing some sand and vegetation, made them disappear.

With a bit more touching-up, I'll have a nice printed photo, to give the subject, this year.

Should she ask, how I managed to get the other photographers out of the image, I'll tell her.

"It was easy. I shoveled sand over them until, they all got covered up."

Once that sailboat is launched at sea, the rituals are completed and everyone goes home.

Before departing, I went and spoke to the priestess, which kind of surprised her.

She was friendly, smiled and tried to give me some of the offerings. I politely declined.

Last year, I decided to walk back to my office and, it was quite a hike.

This year if, she tries to give me some of the sake, I may accept. Somebody can drive me home !

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Cultural Event: Abushibare (畦払) Getting Fields Rid of Vermin

Okinawan Spirits and Spirituality

Praying in a Candle Lit Cave

It's that time of the year again, where these rituals occur on Kouri-jima. 

The photo of the old guy, next to the Yuta (priestess) happens to be me.

Not particularly religious, I go through the motions, just like everybody else in the cave.

That photo was taken a few years ago by the Map It Okinawa dude, with my camera.

I don't recall, what kind of prayer, I may have been making. Let's see.

How about, "Don't let the tide come in, until I get me and the cameras, out of here."

Back Up to Last Night's Celebrations

 

This "Guy Walks Into the Bar Story" must be told because, it inspired me.

It was St. Patrick's Day and I was just about to finish my first beer.

The Irish Pub was extremely busy. Maybe 120 people in a bar built to hold 30.

Standing room only but, the crowd made sure, I got a barstool close to the door.

A very intoxicated youngster stumbled in and stood next to me.

He said something like, "Okinawa is a state of mind."  That impressed me and, I agreed."

It was something, I would have wrote down if, I had a pen, I told the guy.

As the bar tender came down our way the youngster ordered a round for himself and me.

When he dropped to the floor, everybody assumed, I decked him, for some reason.

A bunch of folks came running over and asked if, the kid had bothered me.

I laughed and said, "I didn't knock him down. He reached for his money and fell over."

The kid was so plastered, when he reached for the wallet, in his pocket, he fell.

I told everyone, he was trying to buy me a drink. They got someone, to cart him home.

All of a sudden, everyone wanted to buy me drinks. I told them to save their money.

When I finished my 1st beer, it was time to move on to another watering hole.

As I stood up, a pretty gal, walked in so, I told her the barstool was reserved for her.

Next stop was a Brazilian bar and, plenty of celebrating Irish were in there, too. 

When I ordered a beer and it came, they said it had already been paid for.

I drank it quickly and ordered another one. All my drinks got paid for in advance, somehow.

Some of the crowd from bar #1 were there and, paid for my drinks. Rough night.

After the second beer, I decided it was time to move along and spend, my own money.

And, I didn't want to forget, what that youngster had told me. State of mind.

It would be nice, to come up with one word to describe Okinawa.

Spirituality

Okinawa is part of Japan but, closer to Taiwan than Tokyo. It's different than Japan.

We're so far south, some people call Okinawa, The Other Japan.

If, I had to put my finger on one word, it would be spirituality. You could Tweet it.

The people above, are trekking through the brush, to crawl into a cave by the sea.

Several times, I've been down there and, really dread the climb. People go every year.

Locals and people from all over Japan, go to attend this ritual.

They will pray and be blessed by a Yuta (Okinawan priestess) while in the cave.

This cavern, isn't visible, when the tide comes in and, fills it with water.

This is what the mouth of the cavern looks like at low tide.

The congregation, literally, has to dig in the sand, opening the front door to enter.

Spring Equinox, I've learned, is when some of the lowest tides of the year, take place.

Other Okinawa rituals, involving the ocean, happen during this season.

This one, comes to mind because, I've invited another foreign friend to attend.

Not many Americans have gone to witness this sort of ceremony.

This younger shaman (yuta or priestess) is facing the rear entrance to the cave.

Prayers are uttered by the priestesses in some unintelligible language.

Blessings are given to each attendee, individually and, I keep worrying about the tide.

There are alcoholic spirits in that cave, along with any other spirits summoned for the event.

To me, Okinawa is not a state of mind. It's something about the people. They are different.

Let's just say, spirituality is what separates them from the rest of Japan.

Previous Posts:

A Cave Called Sururu Gama on Kouri-jima Island Okinawa

Today on Kouri Jima Okinawa We Visited a Cave (Images)

  

A Dozen Brightly Colored GIF Animations from Itoman City

Annual Boat Races in Itoman Harbor

 

 

It seems like summer arrived a bit early this year.

Blue skies, most of the day, made it a perfect time for going outdoors and enjoying a festival.

Before the sun came up, I was in the office, preparing cameras and lenses.

And, I left the lights on, knowing it would be after sunset by the time, I returned.

Most places in Okinawa call these Harii Boat Races.

Westerners usually call them dragon boat races.

In Itoman, the sabani boat races are called Hare and they signal the end of rainy season.

Coincidentally, the word hare, is Japanese for, sunshine.

For events, like this, I carry two cameras and three sets of lenses.

It would be nice to photograph every team as they race and, I try but, usually miss a few.

There are a few thousand spectators at these events.

Luckily, a local sabani team, invited me to stay in the shade of their tent, alongside the port.

When the sun gets directly overhead, a person could easily suffer heat stroke.

They even offered some cold beer but, I chose green tea instead.

The crowds go wild, cheering for their teams, while beating drums.

They have unusual colors for some of the team's uniforms and, it makes me glad.

I'm glad, I am not a fashion coordinator.  Oops!

Knowing it would be a very long camera day, I try to pace myself.

There is a lot more that will be going on at this festival than, just boat races.

Besides all the festival food and game booths for children, there's more.

Many people just come to watch or, participate in the sabani boat races.

Itoman is famous for the fishing ports and industry but, they have farmers, too.

Their contribution to the festival may be seen here.

Watermellons and ducks are thrown into the sea for festival-goers to catch.

And, whatever you catch, you get to take home, for free !

 Very few people remain, after the boat races, for this cultural event.

Hang around with one of the sabani boat teams and follow them, into the evening.

They go to the home of a priestess (noro) after the races.

They enter the home to pray and drink some sake.

Before leaving, they carry their boat paddles, form a circle and, sing and dance.

Visit Itoman City 

Prayer Before a Festive Occasion in the Ryukyu Islands

At the Juri Uma Parade

 

 

Prior to the dances on stage and in the streets a few rituals take place.

The women in white robes are priestesses.

Running ahead with a camera, to get in position, I may have missed some events.

This scene shows those approaching a site for prayer and offerings.

It was the 5th or 6th spot visited along the way.

There were brief visits made to a priestess' home, a  well and other sacred sites.

One of the reasons, I visit days or, weeks before an event is to be recognized by the locals.

It makes, everyone feel more comfortable and, I am not a stranger to them.

Much of Okinawa's recorded history was destroyed in the past.

And, it makes researching some events extremely difficult.

For those interested in Okinawan religion here's a link, in English.

Over 100 pages are included in this PDF about the Tsuji fire in the last Century.

Tsuji, is the district in Naha, where this annual event takes place.

More About the Juri Uma Parade

Wakamizu -- The Sacred Water of the New Year in Okinawa

12 Photos of What Takes Place

These images were taken at ceremonies conducted in December of 2012 and 2013.

It may take another two or three years to capture all of this cultural event.

Reviving some of the history and traditions of the Ryukyu Islands is challenging work.

Most of the documentation was lost or, destroyed prior to and, during the Battle of Okinawa.

A group, the Shuri Tonokura Community Association, has revived of this tradition.

This is the sacred hut (asagi) in Hedo where rituals begin.

Arriving in the village, the day before the event, was a good idea.

It gave me the chance to learn how to build the covered roof from kuba leaves.

And, by the end of the day, I was no stranger in town.

Early the next afternoon, preparations for worship began.

A procession climbs the hill to the house of worship.

Some of their costumes represent royalty.

The women in white are priestesses or, noros (local dialect).

To be determined: Whether this woman was a high priestess or, royalty.

She certainly, was the center of attention, at all the ceremonies.

Prayers and offerings are made at the asagi, before proceeding to draw the first water.

The well, called Ookawa, is reached by taking a long, winding trail down the mountain.

Water, drawn from here, is placed in clay jugs and taken to Shuri.

A week later, in Urasoe, Okinawa this well (Takushi Hiija) is visited.

Prayers and offerings are made before drawing the water from this well, too.

At a shrine named Enkaku-ji, just outside Shuri Castle, the water from both wells is mixed.

From there, the procession heads towards the castle.

The castle is entered through the gate named, Kyukeimon.

Here, the sacred water is presented to a woman of royalty with best wishes for the New Year.

That's the part of Wakamizu my cameras haven't captured, yet.

But, we're working on it.

Thanks to the Ryukyu Shimpo, I got this video you can watch, though.



Travel Photo: At the House of a Priestess in Itoman Okinawa

 Rituals After Dragonboat Races

 

 

 

This photo depicts one of the events which occurs after the Dragonboat races in Itoman.

An entire chapter of a book could be written about Itoman City's Hare (Dragonboat Races).

Don't worry,  You won't catch me doing it.

The structure these men are in is the house of a Noro (Priestess) in Okinawa, Japan.

After the Hare races have been finished, the men who competed, go to their district's Noro.

Here, they make offerings, pray, dance and sing in rituals that are centuries old.

More about the Dragonboat Races and rituals.

Travel Photo of the Week: New Year Ritual in Okinawa

Okinawan Priestesses Known as Noro

 

This photo was taken December 30, 2012 at Takushi in Okinawa, Japan.

The Noro, are the women in white robes, making offerings.

After they pray, water is drawn from Hiijaa, a well to their right.

The water is then taken to UNESCO Shuri Castle.

In a ritual which dates back to the days when Okinawa was the Ryukyu Kingdom,

water from this site, is mixed with water drawn from a well in Hedo, northern Okinawa.

The blessed mixture of water is presented to the royalty of the castle.

It signifies a desire for peace, prosperity and health within the kingdom.

The ceremony is timed to take place around the beginning of  the New Year.

Today's Feature Photo

The Torii on the Beach: Ghost at the Top of the Hill (Photos)

Aw, you don't really believe in ghosts.  Or do you? 

I promised a few people I'd show them the Ghost I mentioned in a previous blog post so, I guess it's time I dug her up.

First, you get to look at the scene as it would be if you were approaching this sacred site in late afternoon.

It can be pretty dark inside this wooded grove, even when the sun is shining brightly on the best of days.

After passing under the Torii and entering the site, this small Utaki, or place of worship, is the first thing you notice along the trail.


Climb all the stairs behind the small building and you'll come to this, very special, site of worship.
It is locked up. Only a high priestess opens the doors to pray and make offerings and that is only on special occasions. No one else has access to the place.  There is a chair on the right side.

Just about the time I started thinking of going the rest of the way up and sitting down to rest my weary bones. Something moved and I snapped this photo.  It's a GHOST and I know her.

She used to work with me here in Okinawa, Japan.  She did the writing and I was the photographer.  We worked together on Photo Essays for APOGEE PHOTO MAGAZINE, GO BACKPACKING and ROMAR TRAVEL.

Some of them, we did a couple of articles for between 2009 and 2010.  Then, all of a sudden, one day she just disappeared into thin air.  So, I figure, she really must have been a ghost.  A GHOST WRITER. 

There's the ghost on the top of the hill behind the Torii on the beach in Okinawa, Japan.  Wuuuu !