Okinawan Folktale: Nose Shutter

Stone Gate at Sonohyan Utaki

 

 

The story began here at this UNESCO World Heritage landmark.

Back in the days of the Ryukyu Dynasty it was a custom of the King to pray at Sonohyan Utaki 

 for a safe journey before making a pilgrimage to Kudaka Island.

At the gates to the shrine, the King asked for one of the guards to return to Shuri Castle and

 fetch his rain gear, in case it may rain, later in the day. 

The escorts, didn't think it could possibly rain, on  a beautiful sunny day so, conveniently forgot about the foul weather attire.

Before the procession reached Baten Port, to depart by ship for Kudaka Island, black clouds appeared overhead and, started dumping freezing rain on the pilgrimage.

Once the King discovered, no one had bothered to bring his rain garments, he roared, “We can't visit the sacred island of Kudaka, soaking wet.” 

 He was cross-eyed and shivering in his royal, water sloshed attire and so enraged, the escort of soldiers feared for their lives. 

No amount of apologies could calm the fuming ruler down.

One crazy servant came forward and, tried to cheer him up. 

 He told the King, “I'm glad we got a good soaking from the heavens. It made me realize, how fortunate we are and, we should be thankful."

The King became even more enraged and, drew his sword, to chop off the fool's head.

Quick Wits

 

“Think about it your Royal Highness” said the servant. “If our Creator had made us, with our noses pointing in the opposite direction, we couldn't breathe on rainy days.

 We didn't come to earth, equipped with nose shutters so, God made sure our noses, were placed pointing downwards.”

Sketch by Atsushi Maezato

The King had a good belly laugh.  The thought of people, wearing “Nose Shutters” cheered him up and, they probably, continued on the pilgrimage to Kudaka Island, in spite of the rain.

REFERENCE:

Okinawan Folk Stories ISBN978-4-99009-146-0

Condensed from: Hana-no Amado P. 152

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Blazing Trails from a King's Grave to a Ramen Shop

 Traveling Without a Plan

 

 

The routine on Friday's, around here, goes something like this.

Camera shooting partner, Doc Graff, usually shows up around 9AM.

We have no idea, where we will be going, until time to hit the road comes along.

Our main objective, is to get out of town. Anywhere, sounds good. Go have fun.

The burial place of Okinawa's First King, seemed like a good place to start the day.

We had been out searching for it about a month ago and, hiked right past it.

It was a  bit easier to locate today because Click Okinawa Dude, made a video about the place. 

 Watch his YouTube show if, you want to get an appreciation for the terrain.

The poor king and his family got kicked out of the castle and, his remains got booted, too.

His final resting place, wouldn't be with the other royalty on the castle grounds.

Friends and family mover his remains from Shuri to Yomitan and, buried him in the woods.

Visit Okinawa Hai! for all the directions and details about the Tomb.

 From the tomb, on the western side of the island, we headed over to the east coast.

We went looking for this cultural asset, called Waitui.

Those folks, in the picture, dug a trail through a mountain, by hand, finishing the job in 1932.

 Not very proficient at direction giving, I Geo-tagged the position.

 

It's located at:  N 26.31739700   E 127.88994700, for those who use GPS thingies.

Thinking about all the hard work, everyone did, I needed a break from the hot sun.

So, we decided to try out a Ramen Shop, we had never been to before.

Whenever, you see a place like this, filled up at lunchtime, you know It's going to be good.

Sitting a table with, my legs stretched out one the floor was a bit challenging.

It looked like a wrestling match between, me, the table and the wall, as I was trying to get up.

The photo had to be taken, before my piping hot lunch, got cold.

Just smelling the food, had my mouth watering and, I was half-starved to death.

The pork dumplings, we call Gyoza, were delicious and, I put some hot sauce on mine.

Somehow, during the night before, they slipped something in my beer, that casued a hangover !

The fried rice was the best, I have ever eaten. And, all that food cost less than 7 bucks.

There was too much, for me, to finish it all. Now, I wish, I had packed the leftovers as a takeout.

For those, wondering where, I got this meal, check TripAdvisor's Review. 

They'll even give you a map. I don't do directions. Remember ?

Okinawa Folktale: Gruesome Story of Kurogane

Beyond the Stone Walls

 

 

A younger brother of the Ryukyu King lived in this enclosure near Shuri Castle.

Prince Chatan and, his pregnant wife were residents of this place, called Ufumura Udun.

 Kurogane, a hairy, dark skinned Buddhist Monk, was accused of witchcraft.

The king, ordered Prince Chatan, to eliminate him.

The Prince invited Kurogane to his home for a game of Go (chess) and, they placed bets.

If the Prince lost, he would cut off his topknot and, give it to the Monk.

The Priest, pulled his ears, grinning, "You can have these if, I lose."

Quiet Night of the Full Moon

 

 

The game started and, Kurogane decided it would be best, to cheat.

He began whispering some magic words. 

The Prince's eyes started to close and his head bobbed, as he slumped in his seat.

The crooked, holy man reached to move a stone, to gain the advantage in the game.

The Prince jumped up with his sword and, quickly cut off both of the Monk's ears.

Kurogane's Curse

Dropping to the floor, bleeding, he fell right next to his detached ears.

The dying Monk cursed, "You will never have a son live long enough to see another birthday."

 The Prince's wife had a baby born, shortly later.

The baby turned a dark color and died from an unknown cause.

Seeking the advise of a Yuta (fortuneteller) the Prince was told, it was the curse of Kurogane.

Neighbors had reported, seeing the ghost of Kurogane in the area of Ufumura Udun.

When the Prince's wife became pregnant again, a Yuta's suggestions were sought.

Another boy child, would surely die.  She whispered some guidance and, went home.

When the child was born, everyone exclaimed, "It's a girl."

The ghost of Kurogane faded away and, no harm came to the child.

In reality, a baby boy was born.  And, lived to become a healthy, wealthy prince.

In Okinawa, many people announce, "It's a girl" to avoid Kurogane's curse.

 Lullaby for Crying Baby

Just in case this bit of folklore wasn't morbid enough, here's an added twist.

To silence a crying baby, you comfort them by rocking to this tune:

The song says something like, be quiet or, someone will whack your ears off with a knife !

REFERENCES:

Okinawan Folk Stories ISBN978-4-99009-146-0 P.141

Condensed from Kurogane Zasyu

RCA JAPAN 



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Okinawan Folktale: Did the Bride Become a Calf ?

Beautiful Chiru-gwa

 

 

Mother worried about her single daughter Chiru-gwa and, who she would marry.

All the well to do young men wanted her hand in marriage.

She would seek the advice of God, by praying outside Sonohyan Utaki.

Sketch by Marin Oshiro

A deadbeat of a man called Tara, learned of the mother's praying at the utaki.

He devised a plan, to insure, Chiru-gwa, would become his wife.

Early one morning, he hid in the bushes, behind the stone gate, of the sacred site. 

The mother was bowed with folded hands, praying in front of the gates.

From within, came a deep voice, telling her, "God speaking, listen to me, carefully.

On your journey home today, you will meet the best man for your daughter, to marry."

The mother, thanked God, bowed and started on her trip towards home.

Rounding a bend in the road, she met a smiling Tara.

Everybody knew he was a no good slouch but, the word from the heavens must be followed.

Chiru-gwa, would soon become Tara's wife.

A Wedding Was Arranged

 

 

One moonlight night, Tara dispatched a palanquin to bring home his bride.

The two men carrying her got tired and stopped alongside the road to take a rest.

Having had way too much to drink, they soon fell asleep.

Along came the King and his entourage, returning to Shuri Castle from a day on a hunt.

The King wanted to know, who was inside the palanquin.

He was told, there was a bride, crying in there and, two drunk men snoring in the grass.

He asked Chiru-gwa, why she was crying, felt sorry for her and, invited her to the castle.

He told the servants to place a calf in the palanquin and, they departed.

Next Morning 

The palanquin bearers woke up with the sun and, hurried along with their load.

A large gathering was waiting to meet the bride, at Tara's House.

When he opened the palanquin, a frightened calf, jumped out.

The crowd laughed.  They figured this was God's way of rewarding the idiot, Tara.

He became angry and took the calf to Chiru-gwa's mother and, said he didn't want it.

The mother was saddened and, worried, God may have done this to her daughter.

 

A Message from the King 

A servant from Shuri instructed Chiru-gwa's mother to bring the calf to the castle.

She bathed and brushed the calf, to present it to the King.

At the castle, she was greeted by the Queen.

The Queen exclaimed, "Mother" and hurried over to kiss her.

Chiru-gwa had become the King's bride.

REFERENCE:

Okinawan Folk Stories ISBN978-4-99009-146-0 P.160

Condensed from: The Bride Who Became a Calf  



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Okinawan Folktale: Salt a Treat from the Ocean

Rainy Season

 

 

This story takes place during a period of never ending rain.

Dark skies and a continuous downpour made travel by land or, sea impossible.

The King was confined to Shuri Castle and, worried about the island's crops.

To End Depression

 

 

The king had the servants brought together to tell stories. 

He asked, if anyone might have an idea, what types of stories, could cheer him up.

One servant, suggested, talking about tasty foods, might help end the gloom and doom.

They took turns, describing the most delicious foods, they could imagine.

Some, considered rice to be the best food.

Others, preferred fish, goat or wild boar as their favorite choices.

Finally, the king asked the original servant, to describe his favorite meal.

Standing proudly before the king and all his court, he said, "Salt is the best thing in the world."

This made the king angry and, he thought the servant was poking fun at him. 

The king quickly, banished the servant to Yaeyama Island. 

Rain Ruined the Crops

 

 

 

Torrential downpours left the crops rotting away in the fields.

With nothing fresh, to flavor meals, the king complained about his tasteless dinners.

Servants dreaded bringing him meals and, hearing him grumble.

  

Mysterious Tasty Dish

 

 

One afternoon, the king tasted his soup and, smiled.  It was delicious.

He wanted to know what had been added, to make this meal so mouthwatering.

The servants told him, nothing special had been added to the meal.

The king insisted, something  different had been put in the food and wanted to know what it was.

A cook, checking the pot of fish, lifted the lid. And, something dropped into the soup.

It had come from the rafters, overhead.

When the servant looked to see what it was, he found a bag of salt, soaked from the rain. 

Sea salt was the magic ingredient, that made his food taste so good.

The king remembered the man he sent into exile for his comment about salt.

Now, he felt badly and, wished for that servant to return.

A messenger was dispatched to Yaeyama, to find the exiled man.

The servant refused to return to Shuri Castle, as the king had banished him for lifetime.

The king sent a second mission to do whatever it would take for the servant to return.

The servant agreed to return to Shuri only under a certain condition.

Three Harii (dragon boats) would have to come to get him and race home to Naha.

The king odrered the Harii boats, to be built and, they sailed to Yaeyama.

 The boats raced back to Naha, carrying the servant in the center harii.

The rainy season, stopped, as the harii and exiled servant returned to Shuri.

On the 5th day of the 5th month of the lunar calendar, each year, the Naha Harii takes place.

  

It helps, stop the rain and, the God of the Sea is thanked for the delicious ingredient; sea salt.

REFERENCE:

 Okinawan Folk Stories ISBN978-4-99009-146-0 P.119

Condensed from Salt Is the Number One Treat



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Okinawa Folktale: Son of an Angel

She Couldn't Fly Naked

 

 

A beautiful maiden from heaven landed in Ginowan.

At Morinokawa (森川) Spring, she decided to take a bath and, hung her robe in a tree.

Photo: Stained Glass of Artwork by Shinzan Yamada

Along came Okumashi, a farmer who spotted the clothing.

He dropped his tools on the ground and grabbed the cloth, hanging in the bushes.

He forgot all about washing his tools and, ran off with the angel's clothes.

He stashed the robe in his toolshed.

Then, remembered, he left his tools, back at the spring.

Surprise !

 

 

 

Returning to the spring, he spots a naked woman.

She was hiding in the bushes, crying because her clothes were missing.

The gentleman farmer, that he was, he offered to take her to his house, nearby.

He gave her clothes and food to eat but, never mentioned the robe.

As time went by, they fell in love, married and, had children.

The first child was a girl, followed by a boy.

One day, the girl was trying to get the younger brother, to stop crying.

She sang a song, which mentioned a magic, flying robe, hidden in the shed.

The mother, overheard and, learned where her angel outfit had been stashed.

Upon finding her long lost robe, she put it on. 

She flew off into the heavens, without saying good-bye to anyone.

Life Goes On

The daughter grew up and married a Ryukyu Lord.

The son, not interested in farming, chose to go fishing and exploring.

He heard rumors, that the Lord of Katsuren Castle was looking for a prince.

He wanted someone to marry his beautiful daughter.

Janamui (angel's son) went to the castle hoping to check the princess out.

Princes Normally Married Princesses

Plenty of these dudes would visit the castle, all dressed up.

Janamui went to visit, wearing simple, banana cloth, worn by the working class.

A sentry at the castle gate told him, peasants weren't allowed.

The princess, hearing the conversation, told the guard, to let the man in so, she could meet him.

She looked him over and, told the Lord, this was the man she wanted to marry.

Eventually, Janamui became King Sato, ruler of the entire Ryukyu Kingdom.

REFERENCES:

Folktales of Okinawa ISBN4-947654-05-8 P.32

Condensed from The Angel's Son

Japan Update

Morinokawa (森川) - The Forest River Spring

Okinawa Information 

The Legend of Mori-no Kawa

More Okinawa Folklore

Ryukyu King, Queen and Royalty: How I Spent My Day

You don't just jump into these sorta things. I learned about it the hard way in previous excursions to the big city. So, today when I went to the King and Queen's Coronation Ceremony in Naha Okinawa I hob-knobbed with the Royalty a little bit before I tried to get close to the big shots.

The guy with no socks and a real beard would be me. I got another cameraman to press the shutter release on my camera. Only he didn't wait for me to fix my hair or anything else.

Once all the dignitaries got used to me hanging around it was fairly easy to sneak through the crowds and capture this photo of the King.

It's actually a Reenactment Coronation Ceremony and the King and Queen are college students playing the roles.

My favorite part of the whole day was snapping the shutter when the Queen had her eyes just where I like them.

Even when rude people popped into my frame with their toy cameras, I didn't mind too much. 

I just hollered "Son of a samwich" a couple of times and people backed away from me.

The inconsiderate individuals could be PhotoShopped out if I was willing to pay someone. Then we could rent the space for advertising, I guess.

I'm going back Sunday to let the King and Queen choose their favorite photo and I'll give them each one for free. I bet, being Royalty, they probably aren't interested in any advertising money.

Really, it wasn't a bad day. How was your Wednesday, any better?

Hauled-Off From Here, TOO !

This is another picture I'll never forget. I didn't exactly get apprehended, this time, but "Doc" did and I didn't want to walk 30 miles home carrying all my camera gear. Somehow, I knew if he got thrown in a cell, he wouldn't let me have his car keys. So, when the Security Guard took him in for questioning I went along, just to see what would happen.

I felt a little guilty because I told a worker in the Museum that Doc was from the newspaper and he called Security.

Apparently, it's OK to take pictures of the Ancient Ryukyu King's Throne for your own personal use.

If you're a reporter or somebody who's going to make a living off your photos, get authorization from the Shuri Castle Office.

The Guard that hauled us away couldn't of been five feet tall, but wore a policeman-like uniform and lectured us all the way through (what seemed like) half a mile of corridors and tunnels, waving his arms and pointing fingers.

I started thinking out loud, " Let's just give him our Memory Cards and RUN, Doc, or WE'RE GOING TO JAIL!"

It turned out, all you have to do to be authorized to take pictures for OTHER THAN PERSONAL USE is go to the office first and explain what you're doing. Then, they give you an armband to wear and a signed release form.

So, while Doc was explaining what newspaper he works for, I started telling the translator I send my pictures to National Geograghic, JPG Magazine, Popular Science, Reader's Digest and anybody else I could think of, just so they'd give me a slip of paper like they gave Doc.

Shoot first and ask questions later doesn't work too well if you plan on making a living with your camera.

Always get a signed release !