Reflections Along the Okukubi River

Nature Therapy for the Soul

Lately I've been taking early morning hikes with the dog, trying to get him in shape.

Way before sunup, I'm out navigating Okinawa's east coast in Kin Town.

By the time the sun rises above surrounding hills and trees I'm walking along the river.

These birds, known as Black-winged Stilts entertained me, circling above the water.

It was 6:39 AM on April 8th, when this image was captured.

Can you remember what you were doing at the time?

Moving along the east bank of the river, I keep looking for interesting reflections to shoot.

Some of my Okinawa friends, who have moved off the island, will enjoy these photos.

They bring back memories of hours, spent on the river, enjoying nature photography.

Not actually planning on bird photography, I was using wide angle lenses.

It would be 7:15 AM by the time I reached this Kin Bypass bridge.

The dog and I, would continue our leisurely stroll all the way to the Kin Dam.

There, we would rest in the shade and take a refreshing water break.

If there's a river or lake near you, checkout the early morning light.

You might be surprised, what the scenery does for your spirits!

Google Maps Location 

Okinawan Folktale: Origins of Okinawa Shisa

Two Original Stone Shisa Statues

There are hundreds of thousands of them if, you counted every Shisa on the island.

The Shisa (Lion-dog) seen today are kiln fired clay or, plastic figures used as good luck charms.

Throughout Okinawa they, guard gates, homes, bridges and offices, to ward off evil spirits.

Often, they are sold to tourists on key chains and as jewelry. Often, they are brightly colored.

To discover the origins of the Ryukyu Shisa, you'd have to go back a few centuries in history.

On the main island of Okinawa a few dozen of the original Shisa may be seen.

Remnants of the Ryukyu Dynasty, from the days Okinawa was an independent kingdom.

A traveler would have to leave pavement in order to find them. Here are two, unique ones.

Tomori Lion

Sculptured at some point during the 17^th Century this statue sits on a hill in Yaese Town.

The district of Tomori, experienced fires burning homes and crops, frequently.

A master of the Chinese art, feng shui was consulted and a tour of the village was conducted.

What advice, to give the villagers, had to be determined by surveying the terrain.

Feng shui practitioners are sort of spiritual persons, with divine connections.

Normal humans, can't sense, which direction evil spirits may be coming from.

When the village elders and the guru reached this knoll, something happened.

They were all sweating from, climbing the hill under a blazing hot sun.

But, the master felt a chill, stopped perspiring and, got goosebumps on his body.

Facing Mt. Yaese, the feng shui expert declared, “That's where the fires are coming from.”

Showing them an amulet, resembling a lion, he gave them instructions.

A life-sized stone sculpture would have to be placed on this hill, facing the mountain.

The evil fires, coming towards the hamlet, would cease and, the villagers would be safe.

In the exact spot and facing in the correct direction, the Tomori stone Shisa was placed.

It was the first Shisa, ever made on Okinawa island and, many more would follow.

Kogusuku Nise Ishi

The fires in Tomori Village never happened again. Stone Shisa became legendary.

They were used to ward off fires, plague, misfortunes and all sorts of evil, throughout Yaese.

Before long Shisa statues were being placed in villages throughout the Ryukyu Islands.

There are at least a dozen of these antique stones, to be seen in Yaese Town, alone.

Most of them are off the beaten path, hidden from the average traveler's eyesight.

Some are in habu (poisonous snake) and mosquito territory and, located where there are no

 parking areas for vehicles.

Many local residents, don't know these treasures exist, in the neighborhoods where they live.

The Nise Stone of Kogusuku is on the travel map and, has some unusual folklore.

It has been designated a Tangible Cultural Property of Yaese Town. It is different.

Shisa or, Chinese guardian lion dogs, usually protect hamlets from fires or evil spirits.

This Shisa was placed in its location, to ensure good fortune for young men.

After being erected at this location, it brought prosperity to the young men of the village.

To this date, on certain occasions, village officials and youth, come to worship here.

It is also said if, a woman desires a boy child, she should touch this stone Shisa.

NOTE: To find other original Shisa a local guide may be required.


MORE OKINAWA FOLKLORE

Okinawan Spirits and Spirituality

Praying in a Candle Lit Cave

It's that time of the year again, where these rituals occur on Kouri-jima. 

The photo of the old guy, next to the Yuta (priestess) happens to be me.

Not particularly religious, I go through the motions, just like everybody else in the cave.

That photo was taken a few years ago by the Map It Okinawa dude, with my camera.

I don't recall, what kind of prayer, I may have been making. Let's see.

How about, "Don't let the tide come in, until I get me and the cameras, out of here."

Back Up to Last Night's Celebrations

 

This "Guy Walks Into the Bar Story" must be told because, it inspired me.

It was St. Patrick's Day and I was just about to finish my first beer.

The Irish Pub was extremely busy. Maybe 120 people in a bar built to hold 30.

Standing room only but, the crowd made sure, I got a barstool close to the door.

A very intoxicated youngster stumbled in and stood next to me.

He said something like, "Okinawa is a state of mind."  That impressed me and, I agreed."

It was something, I would have wrote down if, I had a pen, I told the guy.

As the bar tender came down our way the youngster ordered a round for himself and me.

When he dropped to the floor, everybody assumed, I decked him, for some reason.

A bunch of folks came running over and asked if, the kid had bothered me.

I laughed and said, "I didn't knock him down. He reached for his money and fell over."

The kid was so plastered, when he reached for the wallet, in his pocket, he fell.

I told everyone, he was trying to buy me a drink. They got someone, to cart him home.

All of a sudden, everyone wanted to buy me drinks. I told them to save their money.

When I finished my 1st beer, it was time to move on to another watering hole.

As I stood up, a pretty gal, walked in so, I told her the barstool was reserved for her.

Next stop was a Brazilian bar and, plenty of celebrating Irish were in there, too. 

When I ordered a beer and it came, they said it had already been paid for.

I drank it quickly and ordered another one. All my drinks got paid for in advance, somehow.

Some of the crowd from bar #1 were there and, paid for my drinks. Rough night.

After the second beer, I decided it was time to move along and spend, my own money.

And, I didn't want to forget, what that youngster had told me. State of mind.

It would be nice, to come up with one word to describe Okinawa.

Spirituality

Okinawa is part of Japan but, closer to Taiwan than Tokyo. It's different than Japan.

We're so far south, some people call Okinawa, The Other Japan.

If, I had to put my finger on one word, it would be spirituality. You could Tweet it.

The people above, are trekking through the brush, to crawl into a cave by the sea.

Several times, I've been down there and, really dread the climb. People go every year.

Locals and people from all over Japan, go to attend this ritual.

They will pray and be blessed by a Yuta (Okinawan priestess) while in the cave.

This cavern, isn't visible, when the tide comes in and, fills it with water.

This is what the mouth of the cavern looks like at low tide.

The congregation, literally, has to dig in the sand, opening the front door to enter.

Spring Equinox, I've learned, is when some of the lowest tides of the year, take place.

Other Okinawa rituals, involving the ocean, happen during this season.

This one, comes to mind because, I've invited another foreign friend to attend.

Not many Americans have gone to witness this sort of ceremony.

This younger shaman (yuta or priestess) is facing the rear entrance to the cave.

Prayers are uttered by the priestesses in some unintelligible language.

Blessings are given to each attendee, individually and, I keep worrying about the tide.

There are alcoholic spirits in that cave, along with any other spirits summoned for the event.

To me, Okinawa is not a state of mind. It's something about the people. They are different.

Let's just say, spirituality is what separates them from the rest of Japan.

Previous Posts:

A Cave Called Sururu Gama on Kouri-jima Island Okinawa

Today on Kouri Jima Okinawa We Visited a Cave (Images)

  

Looking Forward to AUG 2016 Full Moon

Hope for Clear Skies

 

 

Tomorrow Obon Season starts and, lasts for the next three days.

Like many activities on island, this event is scheduled according to the Lunar calendar.

Tonight, after 5:30 I went out and shot the moon, to create this animated GIF.

The moon isn't quite full yet but, it will be soon. 

If, you're in the Ryukyu Island Chain, I can give you 3 good reasons to get out at night. 

1:  It's lots cooler outdoors, after the blazing sun goes down.

2:  Eisa groups will be out, dancing, chanting, whistling and beating drums.

3:  If you're lucky and, in the right position, you might be able to catch them under the full moon.

Here's some links, giving the August 2016 full moon schedule:

Farmer's Almanac says it will be at 5:26AM on AUG 18.

Moongiant gives us, AUG 18 at 09:27 UTC.

Space.com 

Has the full moon listed on AUG 18th and, says this:

"It will peak at 5:27 a.m. EDT (0927 GMT), but will appear full to the casual stargazer a day prior and after the peak day."

Time and Date says, the full moon will be on AUG 18th at 18:26.

Check all the resources for the best time, to view the moon at your location.

A Little Tip

The wife has a Chinese/Lunar calendar, hanging on the fridge and, I always mark it.

It says the full moon, this month, is on the 17th of August.

Wednesday night is the last day of Obon in Okinawa and, the ancestors, return to the heavens.

The spirits, depart under the light of the full moon.

Can you guess what I'll be doing the night of the 17th ?

Maybe, doing stuff like, pretending to be a casual stargazer, the night prior to the moon's peak !

 

Today I went Down Some Spooky, Old Stairs: Photo Essay

Originally Published OCT 2011

 

 

 

Reviving this popular post may be a good idea.

It happens, the Map It Okinawa dude and, I are going on a ghost hunt tonight.

Enjoy this old Halloween tale just in case we don't make it back before sunrise !

In order to get in the good old Halloween spirit I have come back and edited this post.

Halloween doesn't really have the meaning, over in my part of the world, that it does for most western cultures.  In fact, if it hadn't been for a great friend on StumbleUpon (LINDARAMA)  sending me mail when she read this, I wouldn't have known Halloween was just around the corner.

On the outer islands of Okinawa, Japan there are many old caves and sacred wells.

Some of them are pretty cool and they make great subjects for photography.

It's best to make sure you don't disturb anything when you go to them.

There are a few places where the stairs are so old they are crumbling.

Wherever I go, I try to get the best possible photos without disturbing anything.

That plastic ladle just didn't seem right next to those old coins I wanted to shoot.

So, I moved it out of the scene for a few seconds.

Then, put it back exactly where I found it.

People in Okinawa believe there are spirits in these old caves and wells.  Many of them come to worship and make offerings at the sites.  So,  I like to make sure nothing has been changed by my presence.  You should do the same, anywhere you go.

YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN SOMETHING LIKE THIS MIGHT COME OUT OF A CAVE OR SOME OTHER DARK PLACE AND GRAB YOU.  DO YOU ?

The culture of Okinawa consists of a strong belief in spirits.  So strong, that something like Halloween is really unnecessary.  Spirits are felt and communicated with on a daily basis.

While I may have been raised as a Christian in my early years, I have also studied some Confucianism, Buddhism, Shintoism, Taoism, Animism and even a bit of alcoholism.  We happen to have a little bit of all those here, along with a strong belief in ancestor worship.  There are gods of the sea, mountains, rocks, wind, trees, earth, fire and all of nature (called kami sama) you'd rather see smiling than frowning upon you.  That's in addition to any departed members of the family tree.

So, on any given day you may see me raise my eyes towards the sky and and talk to "Kachan" (departed mother-in-law) and thank her spirit for my good fortune.

Or, I might say something like, "What are you trying to do to me?"

Whenever I find myself going to some sacred site in Okinawa, Japan like those spooky old stairs, it's not the ghosts or goblins of Halloween I'm thinking of; it's the spirits of someone else's ancestors I have to worry about.  Some people had mean old mother-in-laws, you know.

I wouldn't want to cross paths with their spirits.

There's really no such thing as ghosts.

OR IS THERE ?

WHEREVER YOU ARE, HAVE A SAFE AND HAPPY HALLOWEEN !

To get yourself in the Halloween spirit, or add your goulish story to an already excellent collection, visit my good friend in Australia, LINDA HEAPHY, she'll get the hair standing up on the back of your neck !

Sharing this post with Budget Travelers Sandbox will be my contribution to the world of travel photographers for TRAVEL PHOTO THURSDAY

MORE ON THE RYUKYU ISLAND OF KUDAKA JIMA

Okinawa's Obon Festivities End After 3 Days (Photos)

A Busy Time of the Year

 

 

 

The ancestors have finished their annual visit and everyone has gone back where they came from.

It has been an extremely busy week.

A friend wanted to know if I'd like to go to Uruma City and watch Eisa.

Heck no !    I've been chasing Eisa dancers and, the full moon all week.  Burnout !!!

Eisa, takes place on almost any little village street, throughout the Ryukyu Islands.

Loud music, is played through speaker systems and you hear thunderous drum beats.

The dancers chant stuff like "Hai  EEE Yah".

If you want to pretend you're somebody's drunk uncle and join-in, that's OK.

It was real tempting but, I had photos to shoot.

The Eisa dancers are all twenty-something and full of energy.

They have been known to perform, all over the island, until the wee hours of the morning.

And, being old enough to drink, they may tip a few when they're on a break.

The first night of Obon, they are welcoming the ancestral spirits. 

The second day, they entertain them.

And, the last night of festivities, is to send them off in good spirits.

With Obon season, over and done, my cameras are all packed away, resting-up for the weekend.

So, I was thinking I should take a night off.

There was this place, I found, in my travels that has some good spirits, I'd like to try.



More Caves on Okinawa Yea Buddy !

The Map It Okinawa Dude came by today.

And he said, "I found some new caves."

There must be an unlimited supply of caves on the island of Okinawa.

If we ever run out of caves to go into, around here, we'll just go to some other islands.

There are over 100 more islands, we haven't been to, yet.

They have something like, 160 islands in the whole Ryukyu Island Chain.

Somebody, from the Government of Japan should draft us into service.

We could be like, the official cave-hunters for the Ministry of Caves, or something, like that.

This place wasn't flip-flop friendly so, I wore shoes and socks.

There is a little bit of a stream running through the place.

It doesn't look too deep.

But, I have proof that, in spots, you can get wet, up to your wallet.

Tomorrow, will be a flip-flop day, for me.  The shoes and socks are drying.

And, it's time for me to get some Okinawa spirits.

The kind you need to drink in order to chase a cold away before it takes over your body !

  
NOT FLIP-FLOP FRIENDLY

Visit my website for today's Feature Photo

Learning About the Dance Called Ushi-deeku

Ten More Photos from an Ushi-deeku

 

 Researching this cultural event in northern Okinawa, Japan has been interesting.

Depending where you are on the islands, the name of the dance may be different.

 Usudeku, was the search term I used initially because that's what I was told the dance was.

 And, I learned that women, only, perform the ritual, while I was shooting the event.

 A local newspaper had a, Oct 2012 article on Chibana Usudeku.

They say the purpose of the dance is to kick out evil spirits and have a good harvest. 

 

Chibana is a long way from this village, located in Nago.

So, I pulled my Okinawan-English dictionary off the shelf and looked for "Usudeku".

It wasn't there.

Back up north, I went to see what more I could learn about the ritual.

The friendly people in the village office gave me some printed information.

That's when I noticed (ウシヂーク) Ushi-deeku is what they call the dance.

Thanks to the University of Hawai'i Press and the

Okinawan-English Wordbook we have this information:

"Ushi-deeku, n. A woman's group dance, with hand drums and singing, to express gratitude for a 

rich harvest, usually held on the fifteenth day of the eight lunar month".

The words Usudeku and Ushi-deeku may be interchangeable, or not.

The more you research, the more you find.

Today, I found a YouTube video of Usudeku on Kudaka Island.

There is a lot more to be learned about this dance.

We will go out there and getterdun, one of these days.

Happy Halloween !

By the time I get this typed it should be close enough, anyway. It's been a pretty hectic week around this corner of the world and looks like business will be picking up, even more, next week. This photo was taken the last night of the Obon holiday and really has little to do with Halloween, except maybe the colors, spooky face and the fact that all the racket the Eisa Dancers in the streets are making is to send their ancestoral spirits off for another year.

The photo did get published and that's a major accomplishment for a poor old country boy like me. To me, The Brave New Traveler Magazine is the National Geographic of the Matador Network, where, I've been lucky enough to get published a couple of times. Between articles pending print, articles I'm working on and blogs I do regularly, on other people's sites, my poor cameras are collecting alot of dust. So, this weekend, providing Mother Nature cooperates, I'll be out doing a couple of Gigabytes of shooting. Might even catch some spooky ones for ya.

Happy Halloween !